Guy Robert (1926-2012)
"I'm convinced that some rules comparable to what you call harmony or counterpoint in music exist in perfumery. But no one has been able to define them yet...”
“It is also possible, in comparing the art of perfumer to that of the painter, to imagine intercommunications between the tones similar to what happens between the colours."
Guy came from a family of perfumers, and began his career working in Grasse. After World War II he worked under his uncle Henri Robert (creator of Coty's Muguet de Bois, Chanel pour Monsieur and Chanel No. 19). Perfume creation runs in his family: His son is François Robert creator of Lanvin Vetyver and many of the Les Parfums de Rosine fragrances.
His legacy will continue that goes without question but with one perfumer in particular - Sarah Barton-King.
Rochas Madame Rochas (original version, 1960)
Hermes Caleche (1961)
Rochas Monsieur Rochas (1969)
Hermes Equipage (1970)
Gucci No. 1 (1972)
Mary Quant Havoc (1974)
Christian Dior Dioressence (1979)
Amouage Gold (1983)
La Prairie One Perfect Rose (1990)
Pink Room Parfum no. 1 (1999)
As well as a career in creating perfumes, Robert also acted as technical consultant for Michael Edwards on the ‘Fragrance of the World’ books; was former president of the French Society of Perfumers; and wrote the book ‘Les Sens du Parfum.’
The Legacy...
"Find the right accord and the rest will follow. It seems so simple, and yet it's so difficult!"
Sarah Barton-King, designer and colourist created the Pink Room to enable her to consolidate her designs and fragrances under one lavish fuchsia umbrella – including her luxury ‘Orford & Swan’ accessory range, the fashion-lead ‘Cygnets’ collection of scarves. It also served as a launching pad for her first niche fragrance developed in 1999, with Guy - ‘Parfum No.1’.
The Brief :
“Imagine Marcel Proust having tea with his aunt in the garden at about four. As the sun becomes more gentle, the old roses start to give off their bouquet.
Lime cuts across, taking away the cloying sweetness, some bergamot to give a mellow richness also some jasmine and a little violet - not too heavy, not too rich”
Guy is a genius and to Sarah, became Marcel Proust for a moment!
This is a luxurious fragrance; richness cut through with delicate but aromatic citrus deepening on the skin with musky spice notes that linger long enough to pull the florals back to the surface again and again.
The fragrance breakdown :
Top notes: Citrus with fruity nuances
Middle notes: Incorporates rich floral tones of jasmine, lily of the valley & violet
Base notes: Woody, spicy and fruity, with hints of vanilla, moss and musk.
“We all fantasize and dream. That is what the blender did, with a smile of amusement!”
Acknowledging the great writer Colette, this story is about the Gigi in all of us. She starts naïve and becomes the sophisticate, smoking cigars and drinking champagne.
This evokes the memories of Colette in her garden; I love the modern feel of this scent because its ripened fruitiness seeps through the garden flowers adding a mischievous youthful ping to the sweetened scent and musky undertones then pull the fragrance into maturity.
The fragrance breakdown -
Top notes: Lemon, Blackcurrant, Grapefruit
Heart: Rose, Fleur de Melati, Lily of the Valley
Base notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, White Musk
‘Darkly Audacious’
“A louche figure glides lazily towards her, elegant, androgynous, dressed only in a smoking jacket over velvet trousers. Electricity sizzles through the air, an intake of breath, then silence. Only the piano trills its smoky, blues-y melody.”
Paris in the hedonistic Twenties - ambiguous, sensual, daring and furtive.
Quite a heady fragrance that is faithful to its brief. Continuously changing on the skin with aromatic skill. Deep woody tones that energise and then calm into mellowing warm notes, giving off a very sophisticated and decadent scent indeed.
The fragrance breakdown -
Top notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Rosewood,
Heart: Jasmine absolute, Cashmere wood, Plum
Base notes: Patchouli, Incense, Amber, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.
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